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Welcome to MrThrottle.com
Who is Mr Throtttle?
Mr Throttle is you and me, and everyone that spends a precious moment of his life turning that throttle while heading into a corner...with a big smile on his face or you car driver who is at the right moment downshifts a gear and steps on what you call "Mr Throttle" as he gets into a tight curvey road,
so for all you Mr Throttle lovers this is for you and your throttle welcome aboard!! |
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Mrthrottle.com T-Shirts
If you want your own custom T-shirts or have your own custom picture/image,
please email me at
kornyhiv@mrthrottle.com
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MrThrottle.com Free T-Shirts
Seven Winners : douglasgraham, cbrkid11, moe, Ken, RHINO-RR, homerjay4242, Ceph.
I will be shipping them tomorrow friday september 9, 2005.
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Mrthrottle.com Advertising Campaign in Czech Republic
Want to see more pictures??
Click here!!
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Slippery When
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Posted by kornyhiv on Thursday, March 31, 2005 (10:43:36) (513 reads)
comments? |   | Score: 0
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1. Some riders think when the rain starts to come down, so should the garage door, tucking the bike away until the sun shines again the following spring. Unfortunately, they're missing one of the best motorcycling experiences. Riding in the rain can be fun as long as you know what to expect and how to change your riding accordingly.
First of all, clothe yourself properly. A good rainsuit, gloves, boots, and perhaps an electric vest, can keep even the most persistent storm from soaking you. But most importantly, you must change the way you handle the motorcycle. Throttle adjustments need to be made smoothly and in small increments; use less lean angle; gradually apply your brakes and get your braking done early.
2. Be wary of intersections when riding in wet conditions. We all know about the oils in the pavement that surface after a rain, but what about the oil that was already there? Any place in the road where cars come to a stop will have a higher concentration of the slick stuff. The rain makes it worse. You may not be able to spot this while riding, so it's best to decrease your speed when approaching intersections. Don't run yellow lights, because if you have to turn or brake quickly chances are you'll encounter a traction problem. When stopped at a red light, check the rear-view mirror for cars that could slide into you from behind. Also, double your following distance so as not to be surprised by cars stopping suddenly in front of you.
3. Two things we've noticed that drastically reduce traction during wet weather are manhole covers and sealer pavement. Both of these are like black ice when it's raining. When traveling in a straight line they pose less of a threat, but be sure to scan well ahead before you turn the bike to enter an intersection. Get off the brakes early and take a line that's clear of traction-limiting obstructions. Sealer pavement is usually darker than the surrounding blacktop. It can be found in town or on rural roads, and it comes in large patches or smaller sections where it's used for crack repair. If you encounter either of these traction inhibitors resist braking or accelerating hard. If you have to change your line or turn over a greasy section, keep your hands relaxed on the clip-ons and don't lean the bike any more than necessary.
4. Although this may seem obvious, it is amazing how many people we see riding in an area of the lane that is wet even though an adjacent area is dry. Dry pavement offers superior traction and maneuverability, so make sure you continually place yourself in the driest section of the lane. If you can force yourself to slow down and be relaxed, you will find that rain riding (and even touring) can teach you how to be a better and more confident rider. City riding in stormy weather is by far the most nerve-racking, but just because the clouds roll in doesn't mean you can't ride almost every day. Remembering a few pointers can make riding in the rain easier and safer than you think. And besides, who wants to garage their motorcycle for five months out of the year?
Note: submitted by --Moe @ Copyright to respective owners.
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ROUGH ROADS
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Posted by kornyhiv on Thursday, March 31, 2005 (10:43:26) (415 reads)
comments? | | Score: 3
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1. In a perfect world, all roads would be smooth, twisty and unpopulated. Unfortunately, riding isn't always so straightforward and we're constantly forced to deal with changing situations. One of the most disconcerting problems that crops up is how to deal with rough road. Since you scan while you ride (don't you?), you give yourself a little extra time to react to road hazards by paying attention to road conditions as they become visible. Once an issue arises, the best way to eliminate the problem is to go around it by altering your line through a corner or swerving.
2. Sometimes, however, going around the road hazard isn't an option. On a straight section of road, you should slow down prior to contacting the rough pavement. Keep your eyes up and looking well ahead. The best way to get to where you want to go is to look there. Motorcycles have a talent for following your eyes. So, never look directly at something you want to avoid or target fixation may be the unwanted result. Next, support your torso slightly with your legs while maintaining a relaxed upper body and a neutral throttle. If you encounter an obstacle in a turn, stand the bike up as much as possible and follow the same steps you would for riding in a straight line.
3. The most important decision you have to make when faced with an object you must surmount is to decide if going over the hazard is physically possible-you're simply not going to get over a tree lying across the road-but 2 x 4s, bricks or manhole covers are doable. If there is time, slow down. Next, approach the object as close to 90 degrees as possible to prevent your front tire from glancing off of it. Keep your eyes up, looking toward your desired path of travel. Raise your butt up off the seat. Just before contacting the obstacle, shift your weight rearward, let off the brake and roll on the throttle to lighten your front wheel. Keep your body relaxed and let the bike move underneath you. By staying loose you will be able to straighten the bike more quickly if it gets knocked off line. The same technique can be used for railroad tracks or diagonal seams across a road-except keep your weight neutral and maintain a constant speed.
4. Gravel roads pose their own set of problems by combining an uneven surface with limited traction. Sportbikes, with their steep rake, can be a handful in gravel or sand. Keep your speed low and avoid abrupt turn inputs, acceleration or braking. Smooth is the operative word. If the bike wants to, let it wander a bit while maintaining a relaxed upper body. Keeping your eyes up and looking well ahead is important-particularly so in this unstable environment. If the bike tends to follow your eyes and you look down at the ground, where do you think you're likely to end up? Accidental spinning of the rear wheel can be controlled by modulating the throttle and countersteering in the opposite direction of the slide. Under braking, release a locked front wheel immediately. Gradually ease a skidding rear so the back end moves in-line with the front smoothly.
Note: submitted by --Moe @ Copyright to respective owners.
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Brake Dancing
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Posted by kornyhiv on Thursday, March 31, 2005 (10:43:15) (438 reads)
comments? | | Score: 0
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1. While it's true that most of a motorcycle's stopping power is generated by the front brake, the rear binder can be used in subtle ways to make your riding smoother and safer. In certain situations, using the rear brake to scrub off speed-rather than chopping the throttle or applying the front brake-will have less of an effect on the chassis and keep you on-line in a turn rather than running wide. To use the rear brake properly, it must be adjusted correctly. The pedal should be a few millimeters below your foot when you're in a comfortable riding position; a misadjusted lever can force you to sit awkwardly or make it difficult to actuate the brake carefully.
2. When entering a turn, leave the rear brake applied until after the front brake has been released and the bike is leaned over. This will stop the front-end from rising the moment after the front brake is let off and before cornering forces act to keep the fork compressed. Once the throttle is cracked open, use the rear brake lightly to modulate your speed if you find yourself going a bit too fast. Closing the throttle will load the front-end excessively and cause you to run wide, whereas applying the rear binder will actually tighten your line and pull you to the inside of the corner. Try to avoid using lots of both gas and brake; you want just enough throttle to pick the revs up and keep weight off the front tire.
3. During slow speed maneuvering such as U-turns and lane splitting, the gyroscopic effect of your engine's spinning internals keeps your bike balanced. You can use this to your advantage by using the rear brake and slipping the clutch slightly to keep some revs going. Try U-turns using different combinations of clutch, rear brake, and throttle to find what works best for you and your bike. In general, just enough throttle and clutch slip is required to keep the chassis stable and moving, with speed modulated by the rear brake. Keep in mind that this technique results in more wear on brake pads and clutch plates, and they should be checked more frequently.
4. In downhill turns the rear brake can be used to avoid gaining too much speed once the throttle is open-especially in longer sweepers. As in a flat corner, crack the throttle open as soon as possible to unweight the front tire, and carefully utilize the rear brake to keep speed in check. Downhill turns are notorious for loading the front-end and causing you to run wide, but keeping the throttle cracked open and carefully applying the rear brake will result in a more even weight distribution and keep you on line. With some practice and experimentation, using these rear brake techniques will become routine, and will give you more confidence, smoothness, and safety in previously worrisome situations.
Note: submitted by --Moe @ Copyright to respective owners.
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Off-Camber Corners
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Posted by kornyhiv on Thursday, March 31, 2005 (10:43:06) (1337 reads)
comments? | | Score: 4
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1. The term "off-camber" often strikes fear in the hearts of neophyte riders. They've heard horror stories about innocent riders who enter seemingly innocuous corners only to discover the dreaded negative camber. (For folks who are confused, this is the opposite of a banked turn.) Although these poor souls usually make it through the corner, they exit with harrowing tales of near-death experiences. If you're correctly applying the SIPDE process (scan, identify, predict, decide and execute) the reality of off-camber corners is they're no different from other corners when approached properly. So, your first step in riding off-camber corners is to look ahead to see what's out there (as modeled by our intrepid rider above). If you're not riding your front wheel, it's harder to be surprised by changes in a corner. (If you don't remember SIPDE, take a MSF course.)
2. Why do so many people find off-camber corners unnerving? The primary concern is the lessened traction when the road tilts away. For example, even before you initiate a turn, your tires will already be off their center. In a cambered (or banked) turn, the weight of the bike presses your tires into the road, increasing traction. However, the laws of physics work against you when the road goes off-camber. The forces that typically push you toward the outside of a turn take away from your available traction. Also, you will need to lean the bike more-relative to the surface of the road-to make it through the turn. Therefore, traction and ground clearance issues require off-camber corners to be taken at lower speeds than flat ones. If not, you could run out of ground clearance.
3. Be sure to get all of your braking done early while you're still straight up and down. Trail braking into an off-camber corner is a risky proposition. Get a little greedy and the front end will tuck. (Remember, your tires are more on edge than in a typical corner and have a smaller footprint to hold you to the road.) Your slowest point should be as you enter the turn. Turn the bike late and quickly (i.e. late apex the corner) to minimize your time at maximum lean. Roll-on the throttle as early as possible to unload the fork and settle the suspension. Smoothness is paramount here. Your bike will naturally want to go downhill toward the outside of the turn as it interacts with the curvature of the road, and you will need to apply pressure to the inside grip throughout the turn.
4. Since you late apexed the turn, you will be closer to the inside of the turn later in the corner, but your line will still carry you wide at the exit, as in a traditional line. Be cautious about getting hard on the throttle until you're sure the bike is straight up and down. Like braking, traction for acceleration is limited in an off-camber turn. If you practice these maneuvers several times on a negative-camber corner, you will become familiar with the technique and will be less likely to panic when you encounter an unexpected off-camber turn out on the road. Still, the best way to avoid panic is to scan ahead and avoid midcorner surprises. So, go out, practice and ignore those riders who bemoan the terrors of off-camber corners.
Note: submitted by --Moe @ Copyright to respective owners.
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PANIC STOPS
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Posted by kornyhiv on Thursday, March 31, 2005 (10:42:56) (337 reads)
comments? | | Score: 0
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1. Some of the most gut-wrenching moments while riding occur when something magically appears in front of you and you have to jam on the binders to avoid a collision. You can make life easier by learning how to avoid these situations altogether, or knowing exactly what to do when it comes time to stop suddenly. The quickest way to stop is by using a combination of both front and rear brakes. The front brake should be applied gradually, rather than grabbed suddenly. This will decrease the chance of it locking up. The rear brake should be used firmly, to the point of impending lock up. Both tires will howl on the verge of lock up, and that's when the quickest stops are made. Find an empty parking lot and practice different scenarios including bumps, while turning, and in the rain.
2. While riding, you should be scanning the road ahead, looking for anything that may cross your path unexpectedly. Note the characteristics of the surface you're riding on and be ready to use the brakes accordingly. Keep one or two fingers on the front brake lever and your foot over the rear brake pedal. If you can't see the road ahead for the distance you'll need to stop at the speed you're traveling, slow down. Check your mirrors regularly. Be aware of what is around you and try to avoid being followed too closely. In a panic situation, the last thing you need is to be rear-ended. Observing your surroundings and planning escape routes for any possibility should be a constant exercise while riding.
3. There are times when it may be best to do something other than brake to get out of a bind. For instance, in this photo the rider can either stop suddenly to avoid a collision with the car or-since he's been paying attention and knows there is no other traffic around-simply pull a quick countersteer to stay out of danger. A panic stop leaves you open to other dangers during and after the stop. If it's at all possible, use a safer alternative.
4. When you must brake, don't panic and grab everything you can. Use the brakes just like you've practiced. Try to get a look in the mirrors while braking to see if there's danger behind or to the side. This can help you find an escape route. In this example a truck is in the oncoming lane, but the rider can brake hard momentarily and then, when the truck is safely past, move to that lane. Try to avoid turning while on the brakes, especially if the surface is bumpy or wet. With practice and forethought, you can make your daily ride safer and less stressful.
Note: submitted by --Moe @ Copyright to respective owners.
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