http://www.mrthrottle.com/ Mrthrottle en-us Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:43:36 GMT 1440 CPG-Nuke Dragonfly Mrthrottle News http://backend.userland.com/rss http://www.mrthrottle.com/images/logo.gif http://www.mrthrottle.com/ http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=19 1. Some riders think when the rain starts to come down, so should the garage door, tucking the bike away until the sun shines again the following spring. Unfortunately, they're missing one of the best motorcycling experiences. Riding in the rain can be fun as long as you know what to expect and how to change your riding accordingly. First of all, clothe yourself properly. A good rainsuit, gloves, boots, and perhaps an electric vest, can keep even the most persistent storm from soaking you. But most importantly, you must change the way you handle the motorcycle. Throttle adjustments need to be made smoothly and in small increments; use less lean angle; gradually apply your brakes and get your braking done early. 2. Be wary of intersections when riding in wet conditions. We all know about the oils in the pavement that surface after a rain, but what about the oil that was already there? Any place in the road where cars come to a stop will have a higher concentration of the slick stuff. The rain makes it worse. You may not be able to spot this while riding, so it's best to decrease your speed when approaching intersections. Don't run yellow lights, because if you have to turn or brake quickly chances are you'll encounter a traction problem. When stopped at a red light, check the rear-view mirror for cars that could slide into you from behind. Also, double your following distance so as not to be surprised by cars stopping suddenly in front of you. 3. Two things we've noticed that drastically reduce traction during wet weather are manhole covers and sealer pavement. Both of these are like black ice when it's raining. When traveling in a straight line they pose less of a threat, but be sure to scan well ahead before you turn the bike to enter an intersection. Get off the brakes early and take a line that's clear of traction-limiting obstructions. Sealer pavement is usually darker than the surrounding blacktop. It can be found in town or on rural roads, and it comes in large patches or smaller sections where it's used for crack repair. If you encounter either of these traction inhibitors resist braking or accelerating hard. If you have to change your line or turn over a greasy section, keep your hands relaxed on the clip-ons and don't lean the bike any more than necessary. 4. Although this may seem obvious, it is amazing how many people we see riding in an area of the lane that is wet even though an adjacent area is dry. Dry pavement offers superior traction and maneuverability, so make sure you continually place yourself in the driest section of the lane. If you can force yourself to slow down and be relaxed, you will find that rain riding (and even touring) can teach you how to be a better and more confident rider. City riding in stormy weather is by far the most nerve-racking, but just because the clouds roll in doesn't mean you can't ride almost every day. Remembering a few pointers can make riding in the rain easier and safer than you think. And besides, who wants to garage their motorcycle for five months out of the year? Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:43:36 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=18 1. In a perfect world, all roads would be smooth, twisty and unpopulated. Unfortunately, riding isn't always so straightforward and we're constantly forced to deal with changing situations. One of the most disconcerting problems that crops up is how to deal with rough road. Since you scan while you ride (don't you?), you give yourself a little extra time to react to road hazards by paying attention to road conditions as they become visible. Once an issue arises, the best way to eliminate the problem is to go around it by altering your line through a corner or swerving. 2. Sometimes, however, going around the road hazard isn't an option. On a straight section of road, you should slow down prior to contacting the rough pavement. Keep your eyes up and looking well ahead. The best way to get to where you want to go is to look there. Motorcycles have a talent for following your eyes. So, never look directly at something you want to avoid or target fixation may be the unwanted result. Next, support your torso slightly with your legs while maintaining a relaxed upper body and a neutral throttle. If you encounter an obstacle in a turn, stand the bike up as much as possible and follow the same steps you would for riding in a straight line. 3. The most important decision you have to make when faced with an object you must surmount is to decide if going over the hazard is physically possible-you're simply not going to get over a tree lying across the road-but 2 x 4s, bricks or manhole covers are doable. If there is time, slow down. Next, approach the object as close to 90 degrees as possible to prevent your front tire from glancing off of it. Keep your eyes up, looking toward your desired path of travel. Raise your butt up off the seat. Just before contacting the obstacle, shift your weight rearward, let off the brake and roll on the throttle to lighten your front wheel. Keep your body relaxed and let the bike move underneath you. By staying loose you will be able to straighten the bike more quickly if it gets knocked off line. The same technique can be used for railroad tracks or diagonal seams across a road-except keep your weight neutral and maintain a constant speed. 4. Gravel roads pose their own set of problems by combining an uneven surface with limited traction. Sportbikes, with their steep rake, can be a handful in gravel or sand. Keep your speed low and avoid abrupt turn inputs, acceleration or braking. Smooth is the operative word. If the bike wants to, let it wander a bit while maintaining a relaxed upper body. Keeping your eyes up and looking well ahead is important-particularly so in this unstable environment. If the bike tends to follow your eyes and you look down at the ground, where do you think you're likely to end up? Accidental spinning of the rear wheel can be controlled by modulating the throttle and countersteering in the opposite direction of the slide. Under braking, release a locked front wheel immediately. Gradually ease a skidding rear so the back end moves in-line with the front smoothly. Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:43:26 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=17 1. While it's true that most of a motorcycle's stopping power is generated by the front brake, the rear binder can be used in subtle ways to make your riding smoother and safer. In certain situations, using the rear brake to scrub off speed-rather than chopping the throttle or applying the front brake-will have less of an effect on the chassis and keep you on-line in a turn rather than running wide. To use the rear brake properly, it must be adjusted correctly. The pedal should be a few millimeters below your foot when you're in a comfortable riding position; a misadjusted lever can force you to sit awkwardly or make it difficult to actuate the brake carefully. 2. When entering a turn, leave the rear brake applied until after the front brake has been released and the bike is leaned over. This will stop the front-end from rising the moment after the front brake is let off and before cornering forces act to keep the fork compressed. Once the throttle is cracked open, use the rear brake lightly to modulate your speed if you find yourself going a bit too fast. Closing the throttle will load the front-end excessively and cause you to run wide, whereas applying the rear binder will actually tighten your line and pull you to the inside of the corner. Try to avoid using lots of both gas and brake; you want just enough throttle to pick the revs up and keep weight off the front tire. 3. During slow speed maneuvering such as U-turns and lane splitting, the gyroscopic effect of your engine's spinning internals keeps your bike balanced. You can use this to your advantage by using the rear brake and slipping the clutch slightly to keep some revs going. Try U-turns using different combinations of clutch, rear brake, and throttle to find what works best for you and your bike. In general, just enough throttle and clutch slip is required to keep the chassis stable and moving, with speed modulated by the rear brake. Keep in mind that this technique results in more wear on brake pads and clutch plates, and they should be checked more frequently. 4. In downhill turns the rear brake can be used to avoid gaining too much speed once the throttle is open-especially in longer sweepers. As in a flat corner, crack the throttle open as soon as possible to unweight the front tire, and carefully utilize the rear brake to keep speed in check. Downhill turns are notorious for loading the front-end and causing you to run wide, but keeping the throttle cracked open and carefully applying the rear brake will result in a more even weight distribution and keep you on line. With some practice and experimentation, using these rear brake techniques will become routine, and will give you more confidence, smoothness, and safety in previously worrisome situations. Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:43:15 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=16 1. The term "off-camber" often strikes fear in the hearts of neophyte riders. They've heard horror stories about innocent riders who enter seemingly innocuous corners only to discover the dreaded negative camber. (For folks who are confused, this is the opposite of a banked turn.) Although these poor souls usually make it through the corner, they exit with harrowing tales of near-death experiences. If you're correctly applying the SIPDE process (scan, identify, predict, decide and execute) the reality of off-camber corners is they're no different from other corners when approached properly. So, your first step in riding off-camber corners is to look ahead to see what's out there (as modeled by our intrepid rider above). If you're not riding your front wheel, it's harder to be surprised by changes in a corner. (If you don't remember SIPDE, take a MSF course.) 2. Why do so many people find off-camber corners unnerving? The primary concern is the lessened traction when the road tilts away. For example, even before you initiate a turn, your tires will already be off their center. In a cambered (or banked) turn, the weight of the bike presses your tires into the road, increasing traction. However, the laws of physics work against you when the road goes off-camber. The forces that typically push you toward the outside of a turn take away from your available traction. Also, you will need to lean the bike more-relative to the surface of the road-to make it through the turn. Therefore, traction and ground clearance issues require off-camber corners to be taken at lower speeds than flat ones. If not, you could run out of ground clearance. 3. Be sure to get all of your braking done early while you're still straight up and down. Trail braking into an off-camber corner is a risky proposition. Get a little greedy and the front end will tuck. (Remember, your tires are more on edge than in a typical corner and have a smaller footprint to hold you to the road.) Your slowest point should be as you enter the turn. Turn the bike late and quickly (i.e. late apex the corner) to minimize your time at maximum lean. Roll-on the throttle as early as possible to unload the fork and settle the suspension. Smoothness is paramount here. Your bike will naturally want to go downhill toward the outside of the turn as it interacts with the curvature of the road, and you will need to apply pressure to the inside grip throughout the turn. 4. Since you late apexed the turn, you will be closer to the inside of the turn later in the corner, but your line will still carry you wide at the exit, as in a traditional line. Be cautious about getting hard on the throttle until you're sure the bike is straight up and down. Like braking, traction for acceleration is limited in an off-camber turn. If you practice these maneuvers several times on a negative-camber corner, you will become familiar with the technique and will be less likely to panic when you encounter an unexpected off-camber turn out on the road. Still, the best way to avoid panic is to scan ahead and avoid midcorner surprises. So, go out, practice and ignore those riders who bemoan the terrors of off-camber corners. Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:43:06 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=15 1. Some of the most gut-wrenching moments while riding occur when something magically appears in front of you and you have to jam on the binders to avoid a collision. You can make life easier by learning how to avoid these situations altogether, or knowing exactly what to do when it comes time to stop suddenly. The quickest way to stop is by using a combination of both front and rear brakes. The front brake should be applied gradually, rather than grabbed suddenly. This will decrease the chance of it locking up. The rear brake should be used firmly, to the point of impending lock up. Both tires will howl on the verge of lock up, and that's when the quickest stops are made. Find an empty parking lot and practice different scenarios including bumps, while turning, and in the rain. 2. While riding, you should be scanning the road ahead, looking for anything that may cross your path unexpectedly. Note the characteristics of the surface you're riding on and be ready to use the brakes accordingly. Keep one or two fingers on the front brake lever and your foot over the rear brake pedal. If you can't see the road ahead for the distance you'll need to stop at the speed you're traveling, slow down. Check your mirrors regularly. Be aware of what is around you and try to avoid being followed too closely. In a panic situation, the last thing you need is to be rear-ended. Observing your surroundings and planning escape routes for any possibility should be a constant exercise while riding. 3. There are times when it may be best to do something other than brake to get out of a bind. For instance, in this photo the rider can either stop suddenly to avoid a collision with the car or-since he's been paying attention and knows there is no other traffic around-simply pull a quick countersteer to stay out of danger. A panic stop leaves you open to other dangers during and after the stop. If it's at all possible, use a safer alternative. 4. When you must brake, don't panic and grab everything you can. Use the brakes just like you've practiced. Try to get a look in the mirrors while braking to see if there's danger behind or to the side. This can help you find an escape route. In this example a truck is in the oncoming lane, but the rider can brake hard momentarily and then, when the truck is safely past, move to that lane. Try to avoid turning while on the brakes, especially if the surface is bumpy or wet. With practice and forethought, you can make your daily ride safer and less stressful. Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:42:56 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=14 1. Off-camber corners can catch a snoozing rider off-guard in an instant. The ideal situation is to spot the corner in question well in advance and be ready for it; the element of surprise can be a dangerous one. As always, look through the corner, making sure not to "ride the front wheel," as dirttrackers put it. Here the rider has spotted the offending corner and has already set his entrance speed. Get all your braking done in a straight line. Do not trail brake (braking while entering the corner), because the potential to lose the front end is very high since the tires are already off the center of the tread even when the bike is straight up and down. Your slowest point should be at the corner's entrance before your turn-in. 2. Make sure you set up wide for the corner, but not so wide that you're out in the dirt. If you turn too early and then realize you've used up your lean angle midway through the turn, the only way to correct for it would be to head toward the outside of the corner-right off the road. Turning the motorcycle late and quickly minimizes the time spent at full lean. It's important to remember that when in an off-camber corner, your tires are further on the edge of the tread than in a flat or cambered corner, limiting the traction available. 3. The next step is to get on the throttle as early as possible. Crack the throttle off-idle to unload the front end, settling the suspension. The motorcycle may not want to steer easily through the corner and may need constant pressure on the inside bar to keep a constant arc. 4. Your lane position will be toward the inside third of the lane at the exit if everything's done correctly. Ease the power on smoothly so as not to lose traction at the rear. If you're ready for an off-camber corner and learn these steps, your next encounter will be smooth and assured. Just remember, off-camber corners aren't reason to panic; get the bike slowed, turn it late and quick, get on the throttle early and be smooth.. Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:42:45 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=13 1. This is the classic scenario: You're clipping along at a good pace, flicking through corners in a controlled rhythm, when around a blind bend you see water, dirt or some other debris directly in your path. What to do? Here, the rider has spotted the debris but is already committed to the cornering line, carrying a respectable amount of lean angle. This rider was able to spot the debris because he was looking well through the turn. Make sure you don't "ride the front wheel," which will limit your field of vision and therefore lessen the amount of time you have to react to certain situations. If it's water or dirt, it's not a good idea to cross it with very much lean angle. Once you've spotted the debris-but before you reach it-increase your lean angle to tighten your cornering line. This will give you more room to work later in the corner. 2. Just before you cross the debris, stand the bike straight up (or as close to it as possible). If necessary get on the brakes, but make sure to get your braking done early and release them before you get to the slick stuff. 3. Try to avoid braking through the problem area at all costs; it's immeasurably safer to roll through with the throttle slightly open than it is to even lightly apply the brakes. 4. Once past the offending slag, lean the bike back into the corner to avoid exiting your lane, which would either take you into oncoming traffic or off the road. It's a good idea to practice this procedure in an imaginary crisis when there is nothing at stake. Just remember: When the real thing happens, don't panic. Firm, thoughtful inputs will have you on your way without so much as a rise in heart rate. Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:42:33 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=12 1. Going on a group ride with your favorite motorcycling friends can provide some of the best fun to be found on a bike. The fun of strafing apexes with your buddies is like nothing else-as long as you're all on the same wavelength. There are some basic things you can do to ensure no one in your group is caught off-guard or confused if a situation arises. First of all, talk about the ride before heading out; let everyone know the final destination, and any gas stations you plan to stop at. If you feel like cruising, tell the others to wait for you at intersections. Familiarize everyone with hand signals you might want to use, and always ride in single file or staggered formations, so that each rider can use most of the lane while cornering. 2. If you're with a large group riding in town, make sure everyone is aware of cars around them in case one needs to cut into the group to make a turn. If you're at the front of a group of riders, and notice debris or hazards on the road that the riders behind you will need to avoid, lift your leg off the footpeg or extend your arm downward to warn them. Each rider should then repeat the signal to those following. It's common practice to signal on the side where the hazard exists, but sometimes there may be one on both sides (like rocks in the road, etc.). This is why it's always best to keep enough distance behind the rider in front of you so you'll have adequate time to take evasive action, while still keeping the leading riders in your line of sight (so that you'll be able to see their warning signals). 3. Only pass within the group when you're asked to, and always pass to the left of the rider ahead. Making an unexpected pass more often than not will spook the rider you're passing, which can result in a crash and injury to one or both of you. The rider in this photo is shown waving the rider behind him to go ahead and pass, giving someone else the chance to lead the group. If you don't like the pace someone is running, either back off and slot yourself toward the rear of the group, or be patient until they wave you by. If you can't follow, how do you expect someone to follow you? Again, give the rider in front of you plenty of room, and wait periodically for any rider in the group who is not able to keep up. If you haven't seen him in your mirrors for five minutes, pull over or slow down until you do. 4. Accidents usually happen when riders become competitive within their own group. Trying to show what a stud rider you are by practically running in the lead rider's draft and trying to "fill his mirrors" is a sure way to cause a pileup if the lead rider makes an unexpected move or mistake. There are too many variables and not enough room to use the street as your own private racetrack. Also, riding in a competitive nature invariably ratchets up the pace at a constant rate, until you end up riding far too quickly for the street. Ride at a pace where the speeds are still fun, but the competitiveness is absent. Half the fun of this sport is enjoying it with other people who share a common interest, and it's even better when you form a cohesive group of riders who can anticipate and predict each other's actions. Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:42:23 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=11 1. Simple as they may seem, U-turns can pose a significant problem to riders of varying levels of experience. In fact, talk to any beginning rider and one of their biggest fears is typically tight turns. At one point or another, most riders have dropped a bike while attempting to turn around. Steering lock, rider height, bike size and a number of other factors come into play when negotiating a U-turn, so here are a few tips to help those struggling every time they find themselves wanting to go in the opposite direction. The rider shown in the first photo has pulled all the way to the edge of the road in order to give himself as much room as possible for the U-turn. Notice the over-the-shoulder head-check to assure that there is no traffic coming. This is important for obvious reasons. 2. The important thing to remember is that to execute a tight U-turn, the bike must lean toward the inside of the turn. The more you lean, the tighter the arc of the turn. Many riders, especially beginners, want to feel the security of having both feet on the ground, but doing so increases the radius of the corner since the bike remains nearly straight up-and-down. This rider is using a respectable amount of lean angle and has turned the bars to full lock. In order to ensure that the bike does not stall, it's helpful to modulate the clutch in the friction zone (i.e., slipping the clutch to a small degree). Turn the bike quickly, getting the majority of your weight on the outside footpeg; if the bike starts to fall in too quickly, the lean angle can be arrested with throttle application or by simply dabbing your inside foot. Make sure and look through the turn; this rider is not even looking at the front of the motorcycle, instead fixing his eyes on where he wants to be next. 3. In the middle of the turn, your head should be pointed down the road in the direction you want to go, with your weight still concentrated on the outside peg. At this point, the rear brake can be used to tighten the arc of the corner. Stay off the front brake, as the accompanying weight transfer upsets the chassis more and affects steering to a greater degree. The rider in the inset photo can be seen modulating the rear brake. 4. Notice that the bars are still at full lock to complete the turn. At this point, the rear brake should be released so the bike can smoothly exit the turn. The inset photo demonstrates the proper body positioning during a tight U-turn. The bars are turned to full lock, the rider is leaning toward the outside of the turn, the rear brake is being used and the rider is looking through the corner. With the proper technique, extremely tight circles can be made at very low speeds. Practice going in circles in both directions using these techniques and the next time you find yourself in a tight spot, there'll be no problem getting out of it smoothly Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:42:12 GMT http://www.mrthrottle.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=10 1. Throttle control is one of the most important aspects of motorcycle riding. Together with shifting and braking, throttle control combines to make the operation of a motorcycle one smooth, cohesive action. Riders with poor throttle control can be spotted a mile away. Their motorcycles will lurch, their bodies will sway back and forth with each application of throttle, and if a passenger is on board, simply watch for the ceremonial butting of the heads. Learning proper throttle technique means getting in touch with your right wrist, smoothing your inputs and trying to develop an almost extrasensory connection to both front- and rear-tire traction. Sound like a bit much? Maybe so, but learning to properly control the throttle in every situation takes a lot of skill and even more practice. Ultimately your riding will be smoother and this will give you more confidence. 2. Precise throttle control is necessary in every aspect of riding: accelerating, decelerating, and the transition from throttle off and braking to releasing the brakes and cracking the throttle off idle. The point at which you release the brakes and apply the throttle is crucial because it usually occurs when the bike is beginning to be leaned over. If you're a trail-braker, these actions take place when you're already near maximum lean. There's a lot going on while you're cornering, so it's difficult to be smooth at the controls too. It's important to remain in a neutral position on the bike; don't put too much pressure on your hands and wrists. The key to being smooth is to make every action damped and controlled. Release the brakes and pick up the throttle with a minute wrist movement. Practice so the transition from brakes to throttle is seamless and imperceptible. As acceleration is added, try to feel what the rear tire is telling you: How much lean angle are you using? How much traction is available? 3. So you've released the brakes and cracked the throttle off idle, and now the bike is at maximum lean angle just waiting to accelerate. This is when throttle control is most important. Even the best roadracers know that any type of aggressive throttle input while at maximum lean is a recipe for a high-side. Here's how it works. A tire only has a given amount of traction available in relation to the contact patch, and there is always a trade-off between cornering traction and acceleration traction. The contact patch decreases in size as lean angle increases, so during hard cornering the tire's capabilities are being used up merely by having to deal with lean angle. If you ask the tire to then handle acceleration, it can result in a slide or crash. 4. The solution to this dilemma is to have a steady throttle hand and begin standing the bike up before rolling on the throttle. Decreasing lean angle slightly allows you to accelerate on a larger contact patch, affording more traction and better stability. Again, try and feel what the rear tire is doing. Make all of your adjustments with the right hand fluid, controlled and in relatively small increments. Whether you're on a Sunday ride or commuting in the rain, developing a keen sense of throttle control will give you a better grasp of the motorcycle's capabilities. Smooth action with the right wrist goes hand-in-hand with effective braking, shifting and steering. Successful integration of these skills will increase your riding enjoyment as well as your riding prowess. Thu, 31 Mar 2005 05:42:00 GMT